Day 2: Exceeded expectations

September 4, 2019
Via Rail train#4 to Jasper, AB

19.7km
Average: 13.8km/h (maybe I should not included unloaded averages in my total average??). Max: 31.7km/h

I made it to Vancouver Rail station yesterday in plenty of time despite the unexpected closure of the cyclist/pedestrian access to the Alex Fraser bridge. The Alex Fraser bridge, which crosses at Annacis Island, was my preferred route across the Fraser River as cycling is not permitted through the Massey tunnel, the hourly bike shuttle through the tunnel takes an unfortunate break for lunch exactly when I wanted to cross, and I wasn’t sure if my bike (with the front racks now attached) could be securely loaded on the bus. I still needed to get across the Fraser, and there was no alternate route advertised on the closure barricades. The next bridge along is the Pattulo. Does it allow bikes? Google wasn’t sure. I hoped so, but just as I approached, I found myself riding past a SkyTrain station and took the sure, sweat-free bet.
I have to say that Via Rail exceeded my expectations. The expectations were were pretty low, but still. Getting my bike on the train was easy with no boxing or waivers required. A helpful young man happily reported he’d already loaded 5 other bikes into the train, and offered to take some of my panniers as well. We left the station at 3pm on the dot, and WE ARRIVED EARLY! I had to get two scoops of Chapman’s to cope with the shock.

I have already met another cyclist on a variant of my own trip – he was on the same ferry from Victoria, same train from Vancouver, and has a similar setup with 4 ortlieb bags (albeit red not blue). We compared routes – which also overlap substantially, but we’ll likely not run into each other as he’ll get a head start leaving today, make a substantial detour into Montana, and head through Creston well after me.

So, having ditched the majority of my gear at the (excellent!) hostel, I am exploring Maligne Canyon, a Devonian limestone+water+time excavation crossed by many bridges and even more German tourists.

Notes to future self or others:

  1. Jasper downtown hostel is a well-organised, clean, and pleasant place to stay. Bike parking is limited.
  2. There are some bikeable trails from Jasper to Maligne Canyon. They are mostly populated by mountain bikers, and I’m sure something with shocks would be more comfortable, but my solid steel frame (unloaded!) managed with only a bit of carrying/pushing. Views and scenery were worth it for a day trip.

Alice (written while sampling Folding Mountain Brewing’s Maligne Canyon pale ale at the top of the canyon)

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