Dec 30: Coyambe

That’s fresh cheese wrapped in a leaf, and dulche de leche

We started the day (after the cutest breakfast was delivered to our yurts) with a tour of a bizcochas bakery. The bakery also housed a small gallery of work by a local artist and composer. And we spent some time trying to find the absolute equator by walking around in the street using googlemaps.

The rest of the morning we spent biking in the rain.

It would have been a spectacularly beautiful route had it been sunny. A winding paved road through farmland, and then to finish, about 10kms of downhill on paving stones through a never-ending town. We made an unscheduled stop to poke our heads into a greenhouse filled with roses, and wow are those a finicky crop to grow. So much pruning to get long straight stems with a single large flowerbud. I was also surprised how mature the flowers are at picking time – the transportation must be rigorous about temperature control.

I’ve never had a bad dog experience before, but when we stopped for a banos break at a gas station, I went into the bathroom and was startled that this dog was rushing to get into the bathroom too, but he wasn’t going for the toilet, he took a nip at my ankle. What a dork.

Traditional clothing is pretty normal here. It didn’t feel great to take pictures of strangers in the street, but part of me wishes I had taken those pictures.

We spent the evening in Otovalo, a beautiful small city with a majority indigenous population. We caught the tail end of a huge craft market. I was surprised by how many families were out for the evening together, and how much PDA and hand-holding we saw. We purchased a doll for new years eve and called him Miho. (Local slang for “my son”) We a little bit (quite a bit!) wished we would be spending new years eve here rather than in Quito: the vibe was lovely. Our guides told us that the indigenous culture here is very intolerant of stealing or dishonesty, and therefore it’s a very safe place. At the hotel, Jeannie and I went to the common space to eat our snacks for supper, and we met a lovely family on holiday from Colombia. They practiced their English and we (mostly Jeannie!) practiced our Spanish.

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